The more detailed patterns are difficult to reuse because of the many angles or cuts. To reuse the template, remove from the firearm and place on wax paper for future use. Some degreasers, especially those used in the automotive industry, can leave a residue. Acetone can also be used but sparingly as this is hard on your equipment.
Degrease and lightly sand wood surfaces. Allow to dry overnight. Do not bake. I hunt along saltwater. These shelf lives can be extended by sealing the product in a zip lock bag and placing it in a refrigerator. The refrigerator should be a coating-dedicated refrigerator and should not be used to store food or drinks.
With "normal" shooting, your barrel should never get close to being that hot. Not easy at all. Be careful. Do not use on cars. For use on rough plastics on trucks and UTV rough plastics. For use in engine bays and plastic wheel wells also. The video will demonstrate surfaces you can use Dura-Coatx on. This is a 2 part mix. You can buy templates, or have someone cut them for you professionally. Of course, you need DuraCoat in the proper colors, and I recommend a clear coat over most finishes, especially if multiple colors are used.
An appropriate solvent for cleanup is required, and can be ordered with the DuraCoat. You must use proper protective equipment when using these types of finishes. I use latex gloves the solvents dissolve nitrile and a breather. If you are coating outside with a good breeze, you might get away without using a breather, but I always wear one.
Breathers are inexpensive. Your lungs are not. Use a filter rated for organic vapors. I use a particle filter above that to protect the more expensive vapor filter. Eye protection is essential. I disassemble the firearm as far as is practical. Some people just coat a complete firearm, and that is fine, but I like to disassemble and make a professional job of it.
After disassembly, use a solvent to remove all dirt, carbon, and oils from the surfaces. Soak parts in a tank of a good solvent, or blast the oils off with brake cleaner. Warm solvent and parts make quicker cleaning than cold parts or solvent. Optical sights need to be wiped down by hand. Prep the surfaces that require it by blasting, sanding, or scrubbing. Blow dust off with air or brush off with a soft, clean paintbrush. Mask any parts that should not be sprayed.
I mask all scope lenses, rubber parts like buttpads or scope eyepieces, if not removed, and scope markings. Next, find a way to hang each part that will not interfere with coating or damage a newly coated finish.
I use metal spoons, because any solvent that cleans up DuraCoat will damage plastic. Now, begin applying your first color. Coat the areas and angles of the parts that are most awkward first. If you also hit parts of the larger areas in the process, it is easier to coat those without over-applying the finish and causing runs. I first hit the inside of trigger guards, magazine wells, the inside corners of the fences and angles on an AR lower, the slots in a rail, etc.
Apply the finish in several light coats. Build it up in light coats to the desired thickness. The look and sheen of the surface can be changed by running the airbrush closer or farther from the surface. Some areas might need to be hit from multiple directions to coat all angles. Always keep your airbrush moving — it should be moving before you start the spray and still moving after the spray is stopped. If the technique is correct, the finish will look like part of the surface, with all edges of markings sharp and every detail of the surface clear.
If it looks like something applied on top of the metal, or if the sharp edges of markings look slightly rounded, the finish is being applied too heavily. Parkerized surfaces may require several coats to fill the parkerizing to the surface, and then a few coats to finish. Make sure you get good, complete, coverage on this first coat.
You may wish to partially reassemble if you will be templating across several parts for subsequent colors. Clean your equipment well, as once DuraCoat cures, it is extremely hard to remove. I once was interrupted while coating, and did not get back to my painting booth for almost a full day.
I ordered a new airbrush as a result. Spray your solvent through your equipment to remove residual DuraCoat, before disassembling and wiping down the parts with a solvent-soaked cloth or paper towel. Once the parts are finished, they should be allowed to cure for at least a couple hours before anything else is done. During this time you can mix another color and coat other parts if you are doing contrasting colors.
Then I took some measurements to design and cut some templates. Once the base coat has cured for at least a couple hours, you may begin applying templates. Template or mask the areas that you wish to remain the base color, and leave the non-templated areas exposed. If needed, fill in larger areas between templates with your masking tape. Make sure that all edges of the template are secured. If they lift, transitions between colors will not be sharp.
If necessary to fit complex shapes, templates can be sliced with an Exacto or scissors, and then touched up with tape. DuraHeat high temp is available in six colors and used primarily on the barrels of fully automatic weapons. DuraHeat is capable of withstanding temperatures of up degrees F, and cures at room temperature.
All Patterns Here. DuraCoat Firearms Finishing System which is the very latest in firearm finishing technology. No other commercially manufactured and packaged firearm finishing system offers the versatility, durability and user friendly characteristics of DuraCoat. DuraCoat is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required. Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed.
Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application. DuraCoat is permanent, and provides a professional finish. DuraCoat comes in over standard colors plus Clear and can be blended to match any color of the spectrum.
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